Plate

Centerfold

CAROLINE HATCHETT — Tue, 29 Apr 2025 07:50:57 +0000

THE GOURDET ERA

Chef Gregory Gourdet returns to his hometown as chef of Printemps

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Roll with It

CARRIE HONAKER — Tue, 29 Apr 2025 07:47:26 +0000

Dumplings connect chefs to their heritage and channel tradition in one bite of filled dough

Dumplings may not be the most stylish bites, but they might be the most comforting. At their heart, they are dough wrapped around a filling. But for Fanfan Cheng, chef/founder of Little Karp in Richmond, B.C., “they’re not just a dish—they’re a story, a connection to my heritage, and a way to share my family’s traditions with the community. Dumplings symbolize togetherness, celebration, and the passing down of knowledge through generations.” Plate spoke to chefs across the globe about how history and customs dictate a dumpling’s style.

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Essential Ingredient

JOHN KESSLER — Tue, 29 Apr 2025 07:45:52 +0000

WHEN STYLE Starts with a MENTOR

Stephen Gillanders arrived in Chicago a decade ago to try out for Intro—a restaurant that served as an incubator and residency program for up-and-coming chefs. If Gillanders got the gig, it would be a huge break. After working under Jean-Georges Vongerichten for 10 years in New York, he was more than ready to prove himself as a chef with his own culinary voice. The test ran almost like a single-contestant episode of “Top Chef.” Gillanders was to prepare an elaborate multicourse meal for Intro’s owner and Chicago restaurant impresario Rich Melman of Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises.

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Quick Bites

LIZG ROSSMAN — Tue, 29 Apr 2025 07:30:10 +0000

MOLDING MASA

At Oro by Nixta, masa is the pliable medium for starters of all shapes and sizes

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The Build-Out

LIA PICARD — Tue, 29 Apr 2025 07:29:41 +0000

NOBODY’S FOOL

Schmuck means “fool” in Yiddish, but the design of the East Village bar by the same name is anything but foolish. Designed by co-owners Moe Aljaff (who coowned Two Schmucks in Barcelona) and Juliette Larrouy and their Berlin-based collaborators, Arash Ghassemi (a restaurateur) and Pauline Deckert (a fashion designer), Schmuck blends design styles and vintage touches to create an eclectic space reminiscent of a swanky home.

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The Close-Up

CAROLINE HATCHETT — Tue, 29 Apr 2025 07:26:25 +0000

PIE AS SIGNATURE

A 12-course meal at Yuu crescendos with “Canard,” aka duck pie, inspired by Guy Savoy’s pastry-encased poulet de Bresse. “But I make [a pie] that’s more difficult than Guy Savoy’s,” says Chef Yuu Shimano, once a saucier at the three-star restaurant.

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From the Editor

Gregory Gourdet — Tue, 29 Apr 2025 07:25:50 +0000

STYLE Serving Up

When do simple potato and Cheddar-stuffed dumplings steal the spotlight? When they’re served on a stunning platter with a supporting cast of gorgeous wallpaper in the background and a pile of caramelized onions as garnish. Our cover, shot at Montreal’s Perogie Lili, proves that it’s not only what you’re serving, but how that helps highlight the most humble of dishes (you’ll find more doughy beige beauties like manti and jiaozi on p. 20).

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CONTRIBUTORS

Tue, 29 Apr 2025 07:25:28 +0000

Carrie Honaker is a Florida-based writer who has hauled oyster cages off the Forgotten Coast of Florida, distilled raki with farmers on Crete, and made guavaberry liqueur with a 7th-generation distiller on St. Maarten. She is the author of the upcoming Florida Cocktail Book, and her work appears in Travel + Leisure, Food & Wine, Bon Appétit, and more. A lifelong lover of pockets of dough filled with interesting ingredients, she jumped at the chance to roll around in the world of dumplings for her feature on p. 20.

Clay Williams is a James Beard award-winning photographer covering food, hospitality, and the people and places that define our culture. For 15+ years, his camera has taken him on adventures in the kitchens of both Michelin-starred restaurants and local gems. After capturing Chef Gregory Gourdet cooking with his mother at the James Beard House, opening Kann in Portland, and winning a Beard award in Chicago, he was excited to photograph Gourdet’s fashionable side in NYC for our centerfold on p. 30.

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The Dish

LAURA TILLMAN — Tue, 29 Apr 2025 06:21:24 +0000

Before the springy focaccia and pastas infused with Mexican herbs arrive at the table, diners at Rosetta are greeted by a petite drinking glass hand-etched with flowers and foliage. I first noticed these glasses a decade ago, the first time I dined at Rosetta, an Italian Mexican restaurant in the Roma neighborhood of Mexico City and an institution that has helped build the city’s status as a world-class dining destination. That etched drinking glass is one of many signposts that tell diners at Rosetta they are embarking on an experiential meal, crafted by a chef enmeshed in planning every detail.

That chef is Elena Reygadas, named the best female chef in the world in 2023 by the World’s 50 Best Restaurants. And those glasses, she told me, use a technique called “pepita” (meaning “little seed”), which was introduced to Mexico in the early 1500s. Artisans make small, abrasive cuts to the exterior of the glass to form patterns inspired by the natural world.

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Dish Reimagined

MAGGIE HENNESSY — Tue, 29 Apr 2025 06:15:22 +0000

TWO-FISTED COLLAB

When a Korean twist on the McRib met a modern Jewish deli

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Owner to Owner

JULEKHA DASH — Tue, 29 Apr 2025 05:59:25 +0000

Seema Prasad, owner of Nashville’s Miel Restaurant, and Emshika Alberini, chef/owner of Chang Thai Cafe in Littleton, N.H., operate two distinct restaurants in different parts of the country. Miel delivers French-influenced farm-to-table fare in Music City, while Chang Thai serves Southeast Asian curries and noodles in a 6,000-person town that backs up to the White Mountains. However, similarities abound between the two women. Both run restaurants that have been around for 17 years. They juggle multiple businesses. Prasad also owns Harvest Wine Market and founded Resource Capture, a nonprofit that turns organic waste into renewable energy. Bangkok-born Alberini, who moved to the U.S. in 2000, also owns a seafood restaurant called The Catch, which recently closed, but she is planning to reopen in a few months under a different brand; in addition, she manages commercial real estate. Both credit their families for teaching them how to lead and operate streamlined businesses. The pair sat down to discuss finding and retaining the right people, efficient training programs, and addressing mental health and other issues among staff.

FAMILY AS THEIR FIRST BOSSES

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Smoke Signals

LIZ GROSSMAN — Tue, 29 Apr 2025 05:54:45 +0000

Pitmaster Charles Wong

brings Central Texas barbecue to the Midwest at Umamicue

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The Flip Side

AMY CAVANAUGH — Tue, 29 Apr 2025 05:51:31 +0000

There’s two sides to every cocktail at Paris’ Bar Nouveau

Last fall, I was perched in the window seat at Bar Nouveau in Paris sipping a Ramos and watching the bartenders send out rounds of drinks. The bar is tiny and every seat was taken, so my date and I were perplexed when we kept seeing patrons walk in and not immediately walk right back out.

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Digestif

Tue, 29 Apr 2025 05:46:38 +0000

PLATE CHEF TO WATCH 2020

NELSON GERMAN

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